Masala an Takumi

Chef Takumi Sakanaka transformed the 160-year-old rice farmhouse in the off-the-beaten-track neighborhood of Nara into his namesake restaurants. The building’s original layout and architecture largely remain the same: earthen walls, exposed wooden beams and sliding door partitions that make guests wonder if they’ve stepped into a private residence rather than an Indian restaurant. But nothing is unintentional under Sakanaka’s leadership. He excels in concocting spice blends and elevating Indian cooking with modern flourishes. Some things are obvious displays of his proximity with his Japanese roots and French techniques; savory chicken cakes, garbanzo beans, honey-lemon stewed winter melon and keema curry are served on small plates reminiscent of kaiseki (Japanese multicourse meals). The French-esque Miwa somen ‘pasta’ with mushrooms and spices is a Nara special. Other things, however, are more discreet, like the lamb vindaloo — a spicy Goan-style curry served with whole wheat naan and pickled Awaji onions — or the cauliflower mousse with paneer and prosciutto. As Sakanaka helms the kitchen, his wife embodies the spirit of convivial hospitality and charms diners with her stories. It’s an all-in-all family affair.